Leaving the urban scenery of the city of Heraklion, crossing the peri-urban green zone, the olive groves, the vineyards and the orange groves, in just a short time you can find yourselves in the wildest mountain scenery, while the deep blue sea and the golden sandy beach await you.

The prefecture, mainly lowland and sub-mountainous, is separated from the neighbouring prefectures by two mountains, Mt. Psiloritis and Mt. Dicti. The sub-mountainous area between them is no higher than 1.000 m. To the south, the Asteroussia Mountains block the horizon, creating a curtain before the Libyan Sea. Between the central heights of the prefecture and the summit Kofinas, the Messara Valley is the largest lowland area of the island. As for rivers, the Geropotamos and Anapodaris are the most important ones, both flowing into the Libyan Sea.

On Mount Psiloritis, to the west, brushwood and maquis vegetation prevail today, whereas shrubberies of kermes oak are scattered over the area. The densest shrubbery is found in the Forest of Rouvas, which is of great ecological and aesthetical value, because it reflects a picture of the vegetation of Crete over the years. Kermes oak is the prevailing species; actually, it is the largest kermes oak forest in Europe. Other trees one can find are curly maples, planes, cypresses and pines. The area presents great geomorphologic variety, with numerous gorges, dolines, caves and precipices.

The Asteroussia Mountains, whose highest peak is Mt. Kofinas at 1.231m, are the southernmost mountains of Greece. There are three sections; the first is in the central one, which is rocky with canyons and gorges; the second part lies to the west and reaches the Kokkinos Pyrgos (Red Tower), including a large part of the coastline of the valley of Messara; the third part is the easternmost mountain mass.

The south-eastern part of Mount Dikti belongs to the Prefecture of Heraklion, and it contains a unique complex of habitats, with rich flora and fauna of endemic species. Finally, Mount Youchtas, claimed by the ancient writers to be the burial place of Zeus, is known for its steep slopes, and its highest peak at 811m. This mountain is one of the last wildlife reserves.

The mountainous masses of the prefecture are ideal for bird watching. Aficionados can watch the chukar partridge (Alectoris chukar), the bearded vulture (Gypaetus barbatus), the griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus), Bonelli’s eagle (Hieraaetus fasciatus), the lanner falcon (Falco biarmicus), the red-billed chough (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax), the Sardinian warbler (Sylvia melanocephala) and the golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos).

Endemic plants that flourish in the area attract the interest of ecotourists from around the world. Most species are found at high altitudes, in gorges and in areas with little human activity. One can find the peony or pigounia, known since Dioskourides’ time, the famous dictamo (Origanum dictamnus), St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum), the maroulitsa (Crepis cretica), the malotyra (Siderites syrioca), the most beautiful bellflowers (Campanula tubulosa), cyclamens (Hederifolium), petromarula (Petromarula pinnata), and the Cretan ebony (Ebenus cretica).

Gorges for trekking are numerous and beautiful in the prefecture!

To the north lies Kounaviano – Astrakiano gorge of Karteros, with lots of scenery changes, due to its almost 17km length. The gorge starts at the Municipality of Nea Alikarnassos at Mesa Karteros position, crosses the Municipality of Episkopi and branches into two separate routes at the Municipality of Nikos Kazantzakis, namely the Astrakiano and the Kounaviano gorges.

Along the gorge there are very interesting geological formations, ponds, small waterfalls, as well as numerous buildings and stonework, indicating human presence of earlier times. Along the Heraklion – Rethymno national road, the imposing entrance of the Almyros gorge stands opposite the power plant. It is a very beautiful gorge of huge ecological value, emphasized by the fact that along with the famous Almyros spring, it is a typical example of the geologic phenomena that took place on the northern area of the prefecture. The gorge can only be visited up to Agios Antonios church.

The most visited gorge of the prefecture lies to south: it is the gorge of Rouvas. It starts at Lake Votomos in Zaros; it goes up and enters the main central part of the gorge. The route is very pleasant, as visitors walk by the river, where, except for the summer period, there is a lot of water, forming small waterfalls here and there. The route takes about three hours and ends at Agios Ioannis, a spot with plane trees, lots of water and picnic facilities.

Close to the gorge of Rouvas, lies Vorissiano gorge, which extends from Nida plateau towards the village of Vorissia at the feet of Mount Psiloritis. The gorge is very beautiful, full of kermes oak and other endemic plant species; although it is not sign-posted, it is easy to walk through. The hike takes about 4 hours.

Agiofarango gorge lies between Odigitrias Monastery and Kaloi Limenes. Close to the gorge, there is the small Goumenospilios Cave. The gorge exit reveals one of the most picturesque beaches of Crete; while the experienced ones can climb the rocks on the east side of the beach where one will find a very interesting geologic formation that of “Vourvoulitis”, a spherical doline, like a crater, the bottom of which is the sea. It was formed after the roof of a sea cave collapsed. The hike takes about three quarters of an hour.

Finally, Steno gorge (Narrow) at Vassiliki, is a small but very beautiful gorge, mostly due to the narrowness of its banks, where climbing routes have been created. The gorge ends at the famous Trafoula, one of the most beautiful beaches of the island.

The Prefecture of Heraklion doesn’t include the large mountain masses of the island, yet it is very rich in caves and here lie most of the caves that can be visited; such caves do not include those that are closed down by the archaeological authorities, such as the cave of Eileithyia (Ilithiia) at Karteros, where the goddess of childbirth was worshipped in antiquity.

In less than an hour from Heraklion, there is the cave of Agia Paraskevi or Skotino (dark place), which is said to be part of the Minoan Labyrinth. The cave lies in a 25m deep doline, and it is almost 126 m long.

In the mountainous areas of Avdos village, a little below the cave of Faneromeni, which is of great archaeological significance, lies Agia Fotini Cave, one of the most elaborate caves in the prefecture. The cave includes a 760m long network of corridors, although the visitor can only visit the first chamber, some 30 meters from the entrance. At the end of the chamber there is a temple.

Heading to the southwest of the city of Heraklion, speleological interest increases as we approach Mount Psiloritis. Apart from the caves, this zone contains very interesting geological formations, such as the famous Voulismeno Aloni, a doline of a maximum depth of 40 m and more than 70 m long, that lies along the old National Road connecting Heraklion with Rethymno.

Kamilaris’ Cave is also easily accessible, just 200 m off the old Heraklion- Rethymno National Road. Its large chambers make it very impressive, but it is necessary for visitors to have some source of light. The crossing to the second chamber, which is even more impressive, requires the help of a 10m rope.

Hainospilios Cave is situated in the outskirts of Kamaraki village; it is considered one of the most beautiful caves of the prefecture. You need a flashlight here, too, as well as patience for the first 20 m, because of the narrow passages; then you can enjoy big chambers with interesting geological structures.

Trapeza cave lies near Tylissos village. Its great archaeological value is easily explained by its position; one can see three valleys between the sacred mountains of Youchtas and Psiloritis. The cave is richly decorated with human forms.

Chonos, situated just outside the village of Sarhos is the largest known cave of the prefecture and it contains 1.134m of corridors and a depth of 228m. The cave is of great historical significance as during the uprisings against the Ottomans, the locals used it as a hideout. Today even though the trail leading to it has been signposted and is well maintained getting there is difficult because of its steep gradient.

In the south of the prefecture, lies one of the best known caves, that of Kamares, which was a place of worship in antiquity. Some of the most beautiful Minoan ceramic vases were found here, named kamareika, after the cave. A mountaineering path of high difficulty leads to the cave, and it is only for experienced climbers.

Finally, in the valley of Messara lies a cave that is a miniature of the Labyrinth, the famous convoluted artificial cave of Gortyna that is said to resemble the Minoan Labyrinth, which is still closed to the public for safety reasons. Mikros Labyrinthos (small labyrinth) near Zaros is open, provided visitors carry a flashlight.

Footpaths in the mainland and the mountain masses of the Prefecture of Heraklion represent the routes that Cretans used throughout the centuries; along with bridges and cobblestone roads they made up the road network of past times.

The most important hiking network of trails in the Prefecture of Heraklion is E4, which crosses the prefecture from Mount Psiloritis in the west to Mount Dikti in the east. It intersects the most important mountain paths and habitats of the prefecture. Every step of the way, hikers can witness the glory of nature as well as traces of History.

Trail E4 from Akolyta to Zaros is quite easy and takes 6.5 hours to walk. From an altitude of 1.800 m visitors head to the west of Sella slope and reach Skaronero spring, where vultures nestle.

The view to the south, over the bay of Messara and Phaestos is impressive. After Kamares, the path goes up to Vorissia village. At Zaros you can rest in the courtyard of Vrotissiou Monastery, where you can see the famous spring and the century old plane tree.

Another splendid trail to Zaros is the one that starts from Analipsi springs on Nida plateau and allows hikers to cross the unique Forest of Rouvas and see the artificial Lake Votomos. It is a relatively easy path, about 20 km long. E4 continues from Zaros to the traditional Asites; this is a 10-hour hike of intermediate difficulty. The trail crosses high altitude points affording magnificent views, while at Prinos position one can rest at the shelter of the Greek Mountaineering Club of Heraklion.

From Ano Asites to Archanes, the hike takes 7 hours and crosses rural areas. It crosses Venerato, the hill slopes from Pyrgos to Kyparissos, through olive groves and vineyards, and reaches Prophitis Elias and Kanli Kastelli. From there, walking along the cobblestone road, at the feet of Mount Youchtas, one can visit the Minoan Mansion at Vathypetros or continue to Archanes. An easy 18-km-trail starts from Ano Archanes heading to Angarathou Monastery. In the traditional Myrtia village you can find scattered oil and wine presses, whereas at Astrakoi you can see the watermills and the springs that supply water to Heraklion. The trail that heads towards Lassithi starts from the gardens of Angarathou Monastery and leads to Apostoloi and Kastelli. Going up towards Xydas village you head to Kastamonitsa, at the western feet of Mount Dikti. The hike is easy and takes about 5 hours. Finally, Stroumboula plateau is interesting for both hiking and cycling. On this beautiful plateau you can see the chapel of Agios Georgios and, if one is lucky, in the summer, they can watch horse races of the small but sturdy native georgalidika horses.

For climbing fans, there are several climbing routes of varying difficulty levels in the Prefecture of Heraklion. Kopsias, above the Heraklion – Agios Nikolaos National Road in the Kokkini Hani area, there is a climbing trail, the rocks of which do not exceed 60 m in height. There are about 20 different routes prepared, with climbing difficulty levels ranging from IV to VIII.

Next to Kaloi Limenes, in the south of the prefecture, there is Agiofarango gorge. There are six 50m routes ranging in climbing difficulty levels from V to VII.

On Mt. Asterousia, next to Kofina, its highest peak, at the village Kapetaniana a couple of Austrian climbers have fitted the rocky area with permanent safeties. The climbing routes are not very high ranging from 15m to 60m but the difficulty levels range from IVVIII.

With so many gorges, the Prefecture of Heraklion offers many opportunities for canyoning.

The open gorge of Agia Paraskevi, with the impressive 110m waterfall ends at Tris Ekklisies (Three churches) beach. One can walk through it at any time of the year and it is only for experienced hikers.

Abas gorge, with the highest waterfall on Crete, reaching 145m, is very impressive, especially in the spring time.

The descent is difficult, and only for experienced climbers with the necessary equipment.

The Mesosfini an open gorge that leads out to the Libyan Sea. It also has stalagmites hanging from its big waterfalls. Tsoutsouros is the smallest gorge of the area. Quite easy and narrow, it can be visited throughout the year and it is ideal for beginners.

Kavoussi resembles a sculpture made of beautiful red-coloured rock. It is well secured and accessible throughout the year.

The small plateau around Avdos is ideal for paragliding, providing perfect takeoff and landing conditions. The gradient is 350 m and it faces north.